CAMOfleurs: The Fashion of Camo
- S.T.A.R.R Fashion Companion
- 7 days ago
- 3 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
From covert military operations to high fashion collections, the camouflage pattern has undergone a fascinating transformation. This blog dives into the camo print's storied past, tracing its origins in military deception, the artists behind its earliest iterations, and its bold reappearance in contemporary art and design.
Introduction
Camouflage isn’t just a pattern—it’s a statement. While today it often struts down runways or pops off sneaker designs, its origin is deeply rooted in military strategy and visual trickery. The pattern's journey is one of evolution: from a tactical tool to a symbol of rebellion and cultural commentary.
Camouflage in History & Warfare
The earliest use of natural camouflage dates back centuries, but it wasn't until World War I that armies began to develop systematic camo patterns. The French army formed a unit of artists called the Section de Camouflage, led by painter Lucien-Victor Guirand de Scévola.
Lucien was tasked to create deceptive designs that blended with the environment, the artists painted tanks, uniforms, and even scenery to confuse enemy troops.
During World War II, camo design intensified, with different terrains, this required unique prints—desert, forest, arctic, and urban environments each inspired distinctive patterns. Countries like Germany, the U.S., and the Soviet Union experimented with their own styles, often involving collaboration with graphic designers, painters, and engineers. Johann Georg Otto Schick was tasked with creating patterns for the Waffen-SS, his patterns combined micro and macro patterns.
I leant that a book was published called 'Concealing - Colourisation in the Animal Kingdom'.
and that this book was heavily referenced by military leaders - who clearly were eager to steal nature's secrets to the art of camouflage.
I guess nature loves war.
Artists Behind the Disguise
Beyond military necessity, the creation of camouflage involved some surprisingly avant-garde minds. Alongside Guirand de Scévola, American artist Abbott Thayer (often dubbed the "father of camouflage") theorized natural concealment strategies. He observed how animals blend into their habitats and translated this into visual principles still used in design today.
In the UK, surrealist painter Roland Penrose applied his artistic knowledge to wartime training and camouflage education, showing how imaginative visuals could fool the eye.
Camouflage in Contemporary Art & Design
Fast forward to the 20th and 21st centuries: camouflage has become a mainstay of fashion and visual culture. In the 1980s and 90s, designers like Jean-Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood recontextualized camo prints as a form of anti-establishment expression. Brands like A Bathing Ape (BAPE) turned camo into a pop-cultural statement with bold colors and logos embedded within the print.
In contemporary art, figures like Andy Warhol and Cindy Sherman incorporated camo themes into their work, exploring identity, disguise, and surveillance. Camo's visual complexity and cultural layers make it fertile ground for commentary on visibility and power.
Camo Today: Streetwear, Luxury & Subversion
Today, camouflage is equally at home in a Dior collection as it is in underground streetwear labels. It continues to symbolize rebellion, anonymity, and utility. Collaborations between artists and fashion houses have further expanded its reach. Think of Takashi Murakami’s camo flowers or Virgil Abloh’s reinterpretation of military silhouettes for Off-White and Louis Vuitton.
What started as a tool for soldiers to disappear has become a canvas for designers to make bold statements.
Conclusion
The story of camouflage is one of contradiction: concealment turned into exposure, function transformed into fashion. Its evolution from battlefield gear to design icon highlights how cultural symbols shift meaning over time. Whether you're rocking a camo hoodie or studying wartime art, you're engaging with a rich visual legacy that's still evolving.
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